Відео

Thanks buddy, appreciate the kind comments 👍 I guess only time will tell if any more vulnerable electronics in these modern vehicles etc are up to their jobs long term. IMHO any potential failures would be easier to deal with if you could actually access a failed component in the first place, instead of everything seemingly being stuck in little boxes in very obscure places these days 😂 Cheers John

Yes, possibly more storage or perhaps an alternative wifi card, although I'm not 100% sure there.

You're very welcome. Thanks for the kind comments 👍

Hi, No sorry, not at present.

Hi mate. Thanks for commenting. Glad you got it sorted 👍

Hi, I've never had the grill off one of these but I would say that you may run into trouble removing the whole inside of the radio, however if your happy doing that then you could certainly give it a try. First though check to see if you can access the bent over grill tabs that stick through into the radio, If you can it may save you taking the whole thing apart.. You can see one of the bent over grill tabs here on the left side, at the bottom centre of the battery compartment.. ua-cam.com/video/GKWRJa5Ioq8/v-deo.html

Yes, it wasn't a very well thought out design IMHO.

yeah, I had the mini 9 back then, terrible tiny speakers, haha..the 10v is somewhat more modern but still slow I gueass, I'll try to put on Mac OSX, Win7 and Linux on it

Hello mate.. I'm sure you would be happy with either. I use to love my EX330 mainly as it was so quick to use. It 's basically a no frills meter with a nice clear display and good accuracy. I don't think that was a True RMS meter though. I know the Kaiweets meters are True RMS meters. I like that the EX330 stands up on the bench properly, and it's leads fit 'normally' to the meters front facing ports. Whereas the KM601 has to lay on it's back, unless you prop it up. And this can be a bit awkward as the leads fit into the bottom of the unit. Also the KM601 has no rotary selector knob like the EX330, just buttons.. This does slow things down a tiny bit sometimes but this would be personal choice I guess. The Kaiweets KM601 does also have a large clear to read & colourful display. Accuracy on both meters are great for hobby use etc. If you'd choose to have a Kaiweets meter where the jacks fit in the conventional way (front panel) perhaps have a look at the Kaiweets ST600Y, just check out the specs first to check they meet your needs. Here's a link to the differences between the two Kaiweets models. ua-cam.com/video/nxCIsPImX-w/v-deo.html If I were to choose today between the EX330 & KM601 meters, I would probably choose the KM601.. Purely due to the larger display, being a True RMS meter with a few extra specs/features. Hope this helps.

Thanks a lot! I went with the KM601S. Hopefully no bad decision?

I'm sure it'll be fine. Enjoy your new meter 👍

You're very welcome. Thank you 👍

Hi mate, Thank you for your comments. You are probably correct. However later I also noticed that the LEDs viewing angle was far narrower than the factory LEDs. So I this would have required an even more accurate placing of the leds to try and balance that tight beam angle. Thanks mate Cheers, John

@@OrbiterElectronics you’re welcome ☺️

Hi mate, I'm not sure if this is 100% correct as there are many variations of these i4 PCB's. However, I did find a PCB on Nitecores website that had an NTC right on the edge of the pcb next to the yellow input capacitor and fuse. This NTC was labelled NTC 5D-7, which is easily available. The 5D-7 NTCs are used on both i4 & i2 PCB's Hopefully, the input protection on your device saved the rest of it 👍 Cheers mate John

@@OrbiterElectronics Thank you very much. Yes I could try that. I think is identical i4 to the one in your video.. Looking at the data sheets it seems the 5D-7 means 5 ohms diameter 7. Mine had a 1 at the end so probably diameter 11. Possible NTC 5D-11.Whatever happened it blew and the fuse and the chip viper22a, but all the traces seem OK. I have another broken Nitecore charger which I have deemed a no fix. Its the New i4............. It just stopped charging on the first battery, but the other 3 charge OK. Looking inside there is a small burnt area of twisted traces, pads etc. Looks like there must have been a transistor/mosfet there that has vapourised. I'll keep it for spares or last resort. These chargers seem to get quite hot. Thanks again for taking the time to answer.

@@johnherrington5 No problem mate 👍Just out of curiosity I took one of my very old i4s apart to have a look at it's design, as I believe it was one of the first models. And It seems that these had no NTC at all, overall they seemed a more basic design. IIRC one of my units was replaced under warranty as it failed almost immediately following a few days of running very hot indeed 🔥 I got a couple more i4s (one of which is in the video).. And I've only just noticed 😂.. this one, like the one on the Nitecore site has an NTC labelled 5D-7. Your right.. The i4 chargers do indeed suffer from heat issues. My other early units are also showing signs of heat damage in certain areas. Diode D7 along with two adjacent 0402 capacitors on the bottom of the PCB (below the DC input jack) look to be running very hot, as is Q7 judging by their colours 🔥 Cheers John

Hi, thank you for your comments. Regards John

Thanks mate 👍.. Yes I think either the firmware or the DAB chips themseles are the main failure point in these radios. Like you, I've seen loads of them.. even brand new ones fail 😯. And as for repair, it's rarely possible as replacement chips were, and perhaps still are impossible to get. Cheers .

Perhaps they have changed the irons or updated them. But as you can see at the top of the Left Side page at 3:04.. It mentions that The 'Electric soldering iron contains no batteries'.

You're very welcome buddy. Glad it was still helpful 👍

First check the charger is working and outputting the correct voltage. Then if you have a spare battery perhaps just try that. After that you would need to disassemble the phone and move onto checking that the voltages are correct getting to the battery & other specific areas inside the phone. If you're not sure what you're doing.. Please have someone who has experience to check it over for you, as such devices are rather easy to damage.

Thanks buddy 👍.. Yes Dell certainly could have just designed this the way most other manufacturers do. I guess the opportunity to make something difficult was just too much 😂 Cheers John

Hi Simon.. If I remember correctly my motor was doing the exact same thing as yours & wasn't contacting the mirco-switch at the end of it's travel. So our heating or hot water wasn't turning on. So as the motors were only about £12 I ended up replacing it. With regards to repair, I'm not sure as i've never bothered with that. But I'd doubt a repair would last anyway. As attached to the motor is it's small gearbox, this houses very small narrow plastic gears.. And what happens is these gears unfortunately strip teeth when they age, this then affects the travel length of the lever arm, meaning that it often doesn't reach the micro-switch as it should. Once a few teeth have stripped the motor/gearbox no longer works

Yes I've seen that a few times too Keith. The switches are very flimsy and vulnerable to moisture aren't they. Thanks for the comments mate. Cheers John

Glad to hear your mice are working again 👍 Cheers John

Thanks for the kind comments Bob 👍

@@OrbiterElectronics You are welcome Sir!

Hi buddy 👍

Hahaa.. Thanks buddy 👍

Thanks Raymond 👍

I don't normally have it that hot really.. perhaps 50-60℃ for a few minutes, It burns my hands if it's much hotter. If I then need more heat, I'll use the hot air on the specific parts.

@@OrbiterElectronics thank you! Appreciate it.

@@cricketkajunoon No problem buddy 👍

Yea they're no good after their first set of cells, or after any attempt to repair them either 👍

Hi.. The ones I use are the 'Pace MT-100 Minitweez'. They're are not standalone tweezers. They only work with the Pace power supplies.

Thanks Walter 👍

Hi mate... IIRC it's between 0 - 30mA.. This ramps up slowly to provide an appropriate voltage/current to power most individual LEDs or LED strips.

@@OrbiterElectronics So 250ma draw on backlight is to high??

Hi mate... Unfortunately there is not a 'normal' consumption current for back-lights as they vary A LOT. I'm not sure if the TVs PSU will shut off or not. Here's a helpful video if you're in the process of testing etc ua-cam.com/video/4RzuLiRTzJg/v-deo.html

@@OrbiterElectronics I powered them externaly and they little up perfect but they draw 250ma. I put on her own power supply and they come on and back off. I thought that 250ma would be ok as a current.

@@OrbiterElectronics I've watched all those videos, they are pretty much useless. I need to know is 250ma excessive or ok. I have looked at 3030 white leds and they are quoted at 300 ma

@@irishguy200007 How many leds strips are there and how many LEDs on each strip?

@@OrbiterElectronics 5 strips all in series with 9 on each strip total 45 leds. I hit it with 120 volts and they all light bar one I had to bypass and it's drawing 250ma which I thought was ok but I am wondering if these TV's have an upper cutt off current that they will shut down once crossed. I looked up tv leds for sale and they quote 300ma.

Thanks buddy 👍

Hope it all goes well for you 👍

Cheers @@OrbiterElectronics

You can just solder in a suitable white LED. Remember to check that the LED is fitted the correct way around with regards to it's polarity. Then you can use a simple LED resistor calculator, to work out which resistor you'll require for your new white LED... www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/ledcalc.php

Have a look for.. ' Hakko C1390C Omnivise '. They're rather expensive but very handy.

Have a look for.. ' Hakko C1390C Omnivise '. They're rather expensive but very handy.

@@OrbiterElectronics thank you

Hope you can get them going again 👍

@@OrbiterElectronics cells are at 0,47V and 0,58V. Little PV module seems to be generating, cables and switch are good. I'll see if they take a charge again but they might be broken. The cheapest I've seen the 2/3AAA cells here are 10€ for 6 pieces. I'll think about it. It might be funny to have a regular AAA cell sticking out into the glass... 😅

@janred94 Haha.. Yea I put standard cells in too sometimes. At least they usually work 😀👍

I didn't upgrade to SSD but if you can get a suitable adaptor, then I reckon that would help too 👍

@@OrbiterElectronics suitable adaptor? ther charger adaptor?

@shazwannoor1502 .. Apologies.. I was thinking of a NVMe SSD drive, and not a standard SATA SSD drive, which would fit in the original hard drive bay 👍

Hi Vivienne.. I'm sorry I haven't. I not even seen one IRL let alone repair one.

@OrbiterElectronics it's beautiful, changes colour and I've got inside but it all looks intact. No leakages, soldering all in place. And internal reflector spotless

@viviennejones-gs4ge I'm assuming this is a solar powered thing? It could be, amongst other things.. 1. A circuit problem, this could be the hardest to repair unless you have a multimeter etc to test it with. 2. A failed internal rechargeable battery. These do just die sometimes as the cheapest ones possible are often in these solar devices. 3. A bad conection or broken wire in the solar charging part of the orb. Meaning the internal battery isnt charging. Might just be worth checking those things.